Multi-Tool Blade Cheat Sheet: Wood, Metal, Tile, Grout and Plaster
An oscillating multi-tool is only as good as the blade fitted to it, and the wrong blade makes hard work of an easy job. This cheat sheet matches each blade type to each material, so you reach for the right one first.
The Cheat Sheet
Material you are cutting | Blade to use | Why it works |
|---|---|---|
Clean softwood, plywood, MDF | HCS wood blade | Sharp, fast and economical on soft material |
Hardwood | HCS or BIM, slower passes | Hardwood dulls HCS faster, BIM holds an edge longer |
Timber with hidden nails or screws | BIM bi-metal | The hardened teeth survive metal HCS cannot touch |
Sheet metal, copper pipe, bolts | BIM bi-metal | Fine teeth cut metal cleanly without grabbing |
Plasterboard, fibre cement | BIM or carbide | Carbide handles the abrasive fibres far longer |
Tile, and grout between tiles | Carbide grit or diamond grit | Grit grinds hard mineral material instead of chewing it |
Plaster, mortar residue | Diamond grit | Longest life on abrasive mineral compounds |
Silicone, adhesive, paint, caulk | Scraper blade | Flat and rigid, it lifts soft residue in ribbons |
Why Blade Material Decides Everything
Three blade materials cover nearly all multi-tool work:
HCS, high carbon steel, is stiff, sharp and cheap. It is the everyday blade for wood and plastic, and it is ruined by anything harder, especially nails and abrasive materials.
BIM, bi-metal, bonds a hardened cutting edge to a flexible body. It survives the nails and screws hidden in renovation timber, and it is the blade for metal.
Carbide and diamond grit blades have no teeth at all. They grind, and grinding is the only way through grout, tile, mineral compounds and abrasive board.
The rule when the job is mixed: pick the blade for the hardest thing in the cut. A skirting board with one buried nail is a BIM job, because HCS dies on the nail even if it sails through the timber.
Speed and Technique by Material
Wood: medium to high speed, light pressure, let the blade glide. Pressing hard burns the wood and dulls the blade.
Metal: medium speed, steady pressure, cutting oil or lubricant on longer cuts. Slow and patient beats fast and grabby.
Tile and grout: moderate speed, many light passes. Depth comes from repetition, not force.
Plasterboard: medium speed, shallow passes, and clean the cut often so the blade does not heat in the dust.
Blade Shape and Access
The material is not the only decision. A plunge-cut blade makes straight cuts into a surface, such as a small opening in plasterboard. A segment blade sweeps across a longer line and can make a flush cut along a floor edge. A scraper blade is broad and flat for lifting residue. A narrow or curved blade can reach a tight corner more easily, but always check the product description for its intended material and task.
Plan the access before fitting the blade. A wide blade may be difficult to place near a pipe or wall, while a narrow blade may take longer on a broad cut. Do not remove the guard or force the tool into a space that prevents a stable grip. If the blade cannot approach the cut squarely, choose a different tool or method.
Matching the Blade to the Multi-Tool
Most blades in the store's range use the Starlock interface, which the product listings say suits Starlock, Starlock Plus and Starlock Max machines. Some listings mention compatibility with other mounts, depending on the tool model. If your tool or blades use different mounts, adapter rings for oscillating multi-tool blades may help adapt compatible blades between systems. Always check both the tool and blade maker's compatibility information before buying or fitting an adapter.
Common Mistakes
Using an HCS blade on skirting that might contain nails. One hidden nail puts a notch in the blade.
Forcing a carbide blade through grout in one pass. Heat glazes the grit and the blade is spent early.
Cutting plasterboard dry and fast without clearing dust. The packed dust cooks the blade.
Ignoring depth markings, where a blade has them. They help a plunge cut stop where you want.
Where Each Blade Sits in the Range
Mixed Starlock-compatible kits put several blade types in the box, from 12 to 50 blades, so the cheat sheet above is also the shopping list. For heavy grout and mortar work, the 5-piece diamond oscillating set is built for tile joints specifically, and the carbide and curved carbide blades cover adhesive and corner work.
Quick Answers
Can one blade cut wood and metal?
A BIM blade can, and that is exactly what it is made for. An HCS blade cannot, and one nail can finish it.
What blade removes grout?
Carbide grit for standard joints, diamond grit for hard or wide joints. Diamond usually lasts longer in tough applications.
Which blade for plasterboard walls?
BIM for speed and life, or carbide where the board is thick or fibrous. Keep the passes shallow and the cut clear.
Do I need to change blades between cutting and scraping?
Yes. A scraper blade is a different tool from a cutting blade, and silicone or adhesive work wrecks a cutting blade's teeth.
Where to Start
Browse the multi-tool blades range at Pro Tool Box, from single blades to 50 piece mixed kits. Orders are dispatched within 1-2 business days and shipping is free Australia-wide.
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